Opening three restaurants in as many weeks is a headline worthy achievement even in a city as food obsessed as Melbourne. For chef and restaurateur Junda Khoo it is also the closing act of an ambitious vision years in the making. Ho Jiak: Jundas Playground has now opened inside the transformed Tivoli Arcade at 235 Bourke Street marking the completion of a seven million dollar Malaysian food destination that redefines how the city experiences Southeast Asian cuisine. Energetic, theatrical and deeply personal this final venue is not merely a restaurant but the culmination of a decade long evolution for a chef who began his career with no formal training and an appetite for risk that continues to shape his success.
A Culinary Trilogy in the Heart of Melbourne
The new precinct unfolds as a trio of complementary venues each with a distinct purpose yet tied together by the pulse of Malaysian cooking. Ho Liao on the upper level channels the ambience of a polished Malaysian beer hall and delivers an experience that feels like an elevated interpretation of the beloved kopitiam culture. Downstairs Da Bao operates as a bustling takeaway with economy rice plates and Chinese Malaysian comfort dishes inspired by the casual eateries found throughout Kuala Lumpur. Together they form a vibrant ecosystem of fast, fun and deeply satisfying food.
At the center of this ecosystem is the newly opened Ho Jiak: Jundas Playground which Khoo describes as the clearest expression of who he has become as a chef. The venue is defined by creative freedom, technical exploration and a playful spirit that is unmistakably Khoos. It is both a statement of skill and a reflection of how far Malaysian cuisine has travelled in Australia. When Khoo first arrived in Sydney two decades ago the Malaysian restaurants he encountered typically served beef noodle soups and crowd pleasing Mongolian lamb. Today diners are ready for something more layered, more inventive, and more reflective of the culinary diversity of the region.
Crafting a New Language for Malaysian Food
Khoos approach at Ho Jiak is not fusion nor is it strictly traditional. Instead he leans into a playful aesthetic that celebrates familiar flavours in unfamiliar forms. The Malaysian curry puff for example arrives filled with blue cheese and paired with a blue cheese dip a combination that surprises yet somehow feels natural in the context of Khoos cooking. His take on asam laksa transforms the traditionally steaming hot and pungent broth into a delicate frozen granita that blankets raw hiramasa kingfish and is brightened with a pineapple and vegetable salsa. What could have been a novelty becomes an elegant reinterpretation that respects its roots while embracing Australian ingredients and dining sensibilities.
Some hallmarks remain constant of course. Only a few dishes have made the journey from the Sydney flagship to Melbourne but two are indispensable. The roast duck is a perennial favorite and Khoos Masterchef famed laksa bombs deliver a single mouthful designed to capture the complexity of an entire bowl of laksa. His char kway teow appears across all three Melbourne venues yet at Jundas Playground it reaches its most decadent form crowned with luxurious mud crab for an indulgent finishing touch.
The Team Behind the Vision
Running a project of this scale requires not only vision but a dedicated team capable of bringing it to life. Khoo is joined by new head chef Ralph So a Kuala Lumpur native previously at Melbournes Supernormal who now oversees the kitchen. So is central to menu development and execution and provides a culinary partnership that keeps the food both grounded and cutting edge. Several members of Khoos Sydney team have also relocated temporarily to Melbourne to help run the ground floor kitchen which services all three venues ensuring consistency and cohesion across the complex.
Despite the exhaustion that comes from launching three venues in rapid succession Khoo remains energized by the creative possibilities of Melbourne. Ho Jiak: Jundas Playground is the clearest indicator of where he stands today as a chef confident, curious and unafraid to bend tradition in service of new ideas. It is a far cry from the early days when he opened his first tiny Sydney restaurant while still transitioning from a career in investment banking.
Drinks with Character and Desserts with Drama
The beverage list at Ho Jiak is curated to complement its vibrant menu. Guests can choose from a thoughtful mix of wines and Southeast Asian beers along with house cocktails that echo the playful DNA of the restaurant. The signature Spicy Margarita is particularly noteworthy crafted with reposado tequila aged in whisky barrels made specifically for Khoo. This bespoke element hints at the level of detail that runs through the entire venue from the kitchen to the bar.
Desserts continue the theme of sensory delight. The pandan lava cake arrives with a molten pandan custard that oozes luxuriously when cut revealing sweet aromatic layers that have become a hallmark of contemporary Malaysian inspired desserts. Another standout offering brings together the textures and flavours of a crepe, a crème brûlée and the beloved roti pisang complete with silky condensed milk.
A Future Still Unfolding
Though he has completed this major Melbourne chapter Khoo is not slowing down. He has not yet booked his return ticket to Sydney but his next opening Tam Jiak is already on the horizon. With each project he continues to broaden the conversation around Malaysian cuisine positioning it as one of the most dynamic and expressive culinary traditions in the modern dining landscape.
Ho Jiak: Jundas Playground is more than a restaurant. It is a bold statement of identity a celebration of growth and a luxurious culinary playground for diners who crave storytelling and innovation on the plate. Above all it is a testament to how far a passionate chef can travel in a decade and how one persons imagination can redefine what a city expects from its dining scene.
Written By: Lydia Kelly
Published: 4th December 2025