In a city renowned for its ever-evolving dining landscape, Melbourne’s Atria at The Ritz-Carlton promises an unparalleled experience that blends exceptional cuisine with awe-inspiring views. Perched on the 80th floor of the luxury hotel, Atria is not just about the sweeping vistas over Port Phillip Bay and the city; it’s a celebration of Victoria’s finest seasonal ingredients, carefully curated into a tasting menu designed to captivate and delight.
A Dining Experience Like No Other
Though Melbourne’s ocean views might not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of the Garden City, Atria redefines expectations. From its lofty perch, diners can enjoy expansive views that stretch across the bay and beyond, creating a breathtaking backdrop for what promises to be an unforgettable meal. With the elegant and sophisticated design of the dining room, it’s clear that every detail has been carefully considered to create an intimate and luxurious setting that heightens the entire experience.
Yet, it’s not just the location that makes Atria special. The true draw lies in the food. Executive Chef Michael Greenlaw, whose storied career includes positions at some of the world’s most prestigious restaurants—from London’s Bibendum to New York’s Gilt—brings his global expertise and passion for local ingredients to every dish. Having honed his craft in Melbourne at the renowned Vue de Monde, Greenlaw’s deep understanding of the region’s best produce shines through in Atria’s seasonal tasting menu.
A Tribute to Victoria’s Seasonal Bounty
Atria’s menu is a love letter to the vibrant and diverse produce of Victoria, with each five-course tasting menu carefully designed to reflect the best of what’s in season. While specific dishes vary over time, the focus remains on quality, sustainability, and exceptional taste.
One dish that has gained particular attention is the yuba tart, a delicate creation made from tofu skin and filled with a roasted kombu soy milk emulsion. This dish is said to highlight the unique umami of kombu, balanced by the freshness of raw Victorian peas and pea husk jelly, creating a vibrant harmony of flavours that elevates simple ingredients to new heights.
Another standout is a tempura wasabi leaf, which serves as a base for razorback prawns and mentaiko, a Japanese fish roe that adds a distinctive richness. This dish is complemented by a tangy finger lime kosho, offering a bright burst of flavour that cuts through the richness of the prawns and creates a dynamic contrast of textures.
Of particular note is the Macedon Ranges duck breast, which is said to pair wonderfully with a cacao sauce, sweet Wandin Valley Farms cherries, and a reduction of the duck’s own fat and onions. This bold combination of sweet and savoury, along with a side of simple organic greens from Ramarro Farm, demonstrates the restaurant’s ability to balance complex flavours with minimal fuss.
No great meal is complete without dessert, and Atria delivers with a decadent finale. The cocoa-nib brownie base, filled with tangy passionfruit jam and covered in dark chocolate mousse, is the ultimate indulgence. Paired with banana tuile, passionfruit caramel, and Gippsland cultured cream, this dessert is a fitting tribute to the bold, vibrant flavours of Victoria’s produce.
Wine Pairings to Match the Excellence
The culinary excellence at Atria is perfectly complemented by the wine list, carefully curated by Head Sommelier Sean Lam. Lam’s approach is to highlight the best of both Australian and international wine regions, ensuring each course is paired with a wine that enhances the dining experience. A Clare Valley Riesling, for instance, has been noted for its bright acidity, making it the perfect accompaniment to the fresh yuba tart. For richer dishes, such as the duck, Lam recommends a South Australian Merlot that offers the right balance of acidity and fruitiness, without overpowering the dish.
For those looking to explore something truly unique, Lam has also been known to suggest adventurous pairings, such as a Japanese sake from the Tohoku region, which offers an intriguing complement to the restaurant’s seafood dishes.
A Space to Savour the View
While the cuisine is the star at Atria, the space itself is equally captivating. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide panoramic views of the Melbourne skyline and Port Phillip Bay, offering a visual feast that rivals the culinary one. The design of the restaurant emphasizes natural materials, with a striking 19-metre Victorian ash bar crafted from locally felled timber anchoring the space. As the sun sets, the city lights create a stunning glow, enhancing the dining atmosphere and making Atria a truly memorable place to spend an evening.
Whether seated at one of the elegant tables or enjoying a drink at the bar, the ambiance is one of relaxed sophistication, where guests can take in the views and enjoy exceptional service in a beautifully designed setting.
A Truly Exceptional Dining Experience
For those seeking an extraordinary dining experience in Melbourne, Atria at The Ritz-Carlton stands out as a destination like no other. From the sky-high views to the expertly crafted seasonal tasting menu, every element of the restaurant reflects the highest standards of luxury, precision, and care. Under the direction of Chef Michael Greenlaw and Sommelier Sean Lam, Atria offers a sensory journey through Victoria’s finest produce, presented with creativity and elegance.
While many Melbourne restaurants boast remarkable food and wine, Atria’s combination of location, atmosphere, and world-class cuisine sets it apart as one of the city’s hidden gems—offering an experience that truly deserves to be discovered.
Written By: Lydia Kelly
Published: 6th of November 2024