Balenciaga in Transition: From Demna’s Legacy to Pierpaolo Piccioli’s New Vision

The fashion world is abuzz as Balenciaga embarks on a new chapter, marked by a significant leadership shift and a renewed creative direction. Following Demna Gvasalia’s departure earlier this year, Balenciaga has named Pierpaolo Piccioli, the former creative force behind Valentino, as its new Creative Director. The change signals a potential reset for one of fashion’s most provocative houses.

Pierpaolo Piccioli Takes the Helm

Piccioli officially began his role on July 10, 2025, and is set to unveil his first collection for Balenciaga during the Spring/Summer 2026 Paris Fashion Week in October. Known for his elegant, romantic aesthetic and commitment to inclusive beauty, Piccioli’s appointment marks a clear departure from the conceptual irony and dystopian flair associated with Demna’s Balenciaga.

Industry insiders expect Piccioli to bring a more refined, emotionally resonant approach to the brand—one that aligns more closely with Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy of architectural silhouettes and couture excellence. This transition is being closely watched, not only as a major moment for Balenciaga, but also as part of a wider reshuffling of creative leadership across the luxury sector.

Demna’s Farewell: A Grand Finale in Couture

Before exiting, Demna delivered one final statement collection during the Fall 2025 Haute Couture show, held in Paris on July 9. The runway featured a lineup of dramatic looks, culminating in a show-stopping appearance by Kim Kardashian, who wore a fitted lace-trimmed ivory gown under a voluminous white fur coat. Her look was completed with over 250 carats of diamonds from Lorraine Schwartz, including vintage pieces once owned by Elizabeth Taylor.

Source: The New York Times

The show, while visually extravagant, drew mixed reviews. Some praised Demna’s theatricality and flair for provocation, while others felt the collection lacked the innovation that once defined his early tenure. Still, the presentation served as a fitting end to an era that saw Balenciaga become one of the most discussed—and often divisive—names in fashion.

Source: GQ Middle East

Star-Studded Campaigns

Even amid leadership changes, Balenciaga’s Winter 2025 campaign has kept the brand firmly in the spotlight. Shot by Juergen Teller and Dovile Drizyte, the campaign features an impressive cast of global stars including Nicole Kidman, Isabelle Huppert, Patrick Schwarzenegger, Claudia Schiffer, and models Liu Wen, Adut Akech, and Roxane. Filmed in a luxury hotel in Biarritz, the visuals combine surrealism with cinematic edge—hallmarks of the brand’s recent storytelling.

Nicole Kidman’s look, a sleek black gown with daring slits and dramatic shoulders, exemplifies the brand’s continued commitment to bold silhouettes and red-carpet appeal, even as it undergoes a creative reinvention.

Controversial Product Drops

In typical Balenciaga fashion, controversy hasn’t been far behind. Two recent footwear launches have drawn criticism and viral attention. First, a collaboration with Puma introduced a heavily distressed version of the Speedcat sneaker, priced at nearly USD 700. While some hailed it as a clever commentary on consumerism, many online users criticised it as overpriced and absurd.

Even more divisive was the debut of the “Monday Heel Shoe”—a hybrid sneaker with a nearly 9 cm stiletto heel, retailing for £820. Fashion commentators and consumers alike questioned its practicality and price point, reigniting debate over Balenciaga’s commitment to wearable fashion versus statement art.

A New Vision on the Horizon

As the industry turns its attention to Paris this autumn, all eyes are on Pierpaolo Piccioli. His vision for Balenciaga could redefine not only the brand’s direction, but the tone of high fashion itself. Will he steer it back to Cristóbal’s architectural roots, or reimagine it through his lens of poetic modernity? One thing is certain: after years of spectacle and provocation, Balenciaga stands on the brink of a reinvention that could once again reshape the future of fashion.

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