It’s a common acknowledgement that international recognition is harder to come by for Australians. Our place on the map puts us at a distance from international audiences, both geographically and figuratively. This is no less true in the world of haute couture – while international runways are flooded with the fashions of American and European designers, Australians occupy a bright, but the significantly smaller spotlight. From so far across the pond, it takes a particular ingenuity, innovation, and relentless perseverance to make a splash. One such brand has cracked the code and landed itself on the must-have lists of almost every high society fashionista. Camilla, pioneered by Sydney-local Camilla Franks, found a niche, untouched corner of the market and not only dominated it but elevated it.
Her trademark kaftans and kimonos indulge in bright patterns and vivacious textures, bringing the spirit of Bohemia to High Fashion. Yet a brand so iconic began almost entirely by accident.
Camilla Franks never would have predicted her career in haute couture. Beginning as a junior producer in television, Franks quickly became bored behind the scenes and tried her hand at stage acting. She remained self-aware about her prospects, stating herself in later years that her talent in the field was limited, but the craft allowed her to express previously untapped creativity.
This creativity was channelled into the creation of her kaftans, which began as a range of gear that Franks designed to wear at rehearsals or backstage between scenes, favouring the physical freedom it allowed her while she performed. They occasionally made an appearance during her performances, and it was on such an occasion that her kaftans transformed from a personal project to a commercial commodity; members of the fashion industry in the audience, instead of commending her acting, would ask to buy her outfits.
Theatre kid turned up-and-coming fashion mogul, her love of the high arts never truly left her, either. A homage to her humble beginnings, Franks’ debut fashion show was a self-devised and self-directed opera at the Intercontinental Hotel in 2004.
Since then, Camilla Franks has built an empire. She has been labelled the Kaftan Queen, her label attracting international and local acclaim. Her unique eye hasn’t dulled over the years, and
while the concept stays the same, each collection is as fresh and exciting as the one before it, drawing inspiration from a variety of rich, exotic cultures.
Her latest collection is no exception. For the Autumn/Winter 19 season, Camilla takes us to the decadent cultural landscape that is France. Inspired largely by the opulence of Paris and the languid glamour of le Cote d’Azur, the collection returns to its tradition of merging the bohemian with the bourgeoisie. This time, kaftans have given way to jumpsuits and pants – loose, flowy articles adorned with rich reds, blues and golds against dark bases. The Rococo influence is obvious, derived from the palaces and historic homes that line the Seine.
Camilla honours the same quality and care that is prized in its inception. Each piece is handmade and hand-cut. The crystal applique and print work are completed with the utmost care and accuracy by the hands of Camilla’s dedicated “tribe”. It is a rare thing for a label to honour authenticity with such dedication over what is now 15 years, but this – along with the unwavering inventiveness of its designs – is no doubt one of the reasons the brand retains such a loyal consumer base and rose among the ranks of haute couture so meteorically.
Camilla shows no signs of slowing down, either. In recent years it has been spotted in the wardrobes of highly influential celebrities like Beyoncé, Gigi Hadid, and Oprah and has been featured in Forbes and Vogue numerous times. Its global imprint just keeps growing, with US consumers eagerly looking forward to two boutiques reaching their shores later this year.