In a spectacular celebration of fashion and performance, Chanel’s Fall 2024 haute couture show transformed the historic Palais Garnier in Paris into a breathtaking runway. This grand affair, titled Eternelle Elegance, seamlessly merged Chanel’s classic sophistication with the opulence of one of the world’s most iconic opera houses, marking a new chapter for the storied fashion house.

A Setting of Grandeur and Anticipation

The evening began with a touch of elegance and anticipation as guests received invitations accompanied by chic opera glasses. This subtle nod to the evening’s theme hinted at the extraordinary experience awaiting them. The Palais Garnier, renowned for its baroque splendour, provided a dramatic and fitting backdrop for Chanel’s latest collection, reflecting the brand’s deep connection to the world of opera and performance.

As guests entered the venue, they were greeted by the grandeur of the opera house’s legendary staircases and ornate halls, transformed into a runway that celebrated both the past and future of haute couture. The space was meticulously designed to enhance the collection’s theatricality, making every step of the runway a visual spectacle.

A Theatrical Opening: Embracing Opera’s Drama

The show commenced with a striking first look: a full-length opera cape complete with a theatrical ruffled collar. The dramatic entrance was set to “Sympathy” by Rare Bird, a choice that added an ironic twist to the presentation, aligning with the collection’s exploration of fashion as a form of performance art. The cape, along with the accompanying soundtrack, set the tone for a collection that was as much about spectacle as it was about style.

Timeless Elegance Reimagined

As the models began their procession, it was evident that Chanel’s Eternelle Elegance collection was a masterful reimagining of the brand’s timeless aesthetics. The classic Chanel tweed suits, a hallmark of the fashion house, were given a dazzling update. Traditional silhouettes were adorned with a glittering array of embellishments, including pearls, crystals, and sequins. Each suit was transformed into a statement piece, reflecting the opulent surroundings of the Palais Garnier.

These revamped tweed suits were paired with jewel-encrusted camellias and crystal-trimmed necklines, blending Chanel’s iconic style with a contemporary flair. This sophisticated approach not only paid homage to the brand’s heritage but also showcased its ability to evolve and adapt to modern tastes.

A New Chapter: The First Collection Without Viard

The Fall 2024 collection marked a significant turning point for Chanel, being the first designed by “the team” following the departure of former Creative Director Virginie Viard. Despite this transition, the collection retained many of the sartorial codes Viard had championed during her five-year tenure. The focus remained on ladylike elegance, with a refined and modern sensibility that echoed Viard’s influence while paving the way for new creative directions.

The collection’s seamless blend of past and present reflected Chanel’s commitment to its legacy while embracing the future. This delicate balance was evident in every detail, from the classic tweed suits to the innovative use of materials and embellishments.

Playful and Dramatic Fashion Statements

As the show progressed, the influence of opera and performance art became increasingly pronounced. The collection featured voluminous puff sleeves and jet-black feathered capes adorned with tiny flecks of gold, adding a layer of dramatic flair that was both theatrical and playful. The oversized puff sleeves were particularly striking, evoking a sense of grandeur and theatricality reminiscent of costumes seen in epic performances.

Each model was adorned with a large black bow at the back of their head, a whimsical touch that contrasted with the opulence of the surroundings. The Chanel bride made a dramatic appearance in a white version of the bow, adding a classic touch to the show’s final moments. James Pecis, founder of Blu & Green, created the sleek, slicked-back hairstyles using Solid Oil, further enhancing the theatrical elements of the presentation.

Cinematic Design and Performative Elements

French director Christophe Honoré was instrumental in designing the show’s set, which added a cinematic quality to the presentation. The models navigated the opulent halls of the Palais Garnier, occasionally intersecting paths to create a dynamic, performative atmosphere. The design of the set and the movement of the models contributed to a sense of drama and storytelling, reflecting the opera house’s rich history and the collection’s theatrical theme.

The latter part of the show embraced costume-inspired elements, including corsets, tutus, and capes. These pieces added a playful, almost whimsical quality to the collection, highlighting fashion’s potential as a form of art and performance. The show notes aptly captured this sentiment, emphasizing the emotional experience of fashion and its ability to captivate and entertain.

A Tribute to Chanel’s Legacy and Future

Chanel’s longstanding patronage of the Paris Opera and its ballet was deeply woven into the fabric of the Eternelle Elegance collection. Since 2018, Chanel has been a patron of the dance season’s Opening Gala, and its support of the Paris Opera Ballet since 2021 underscores its commitment to the performing arts. This deep connection was reflected in the collection’s homage to Chanel’s historical contributions, including Gabrielle Chanel’s costumes for Le Train Bleu (1924) and Apollon Musagète (1928).

The show concluded with a memorable solo walk by the Chanel bride, who wore an oversized white dress with puff sleeves, a jewelled floral bodice, and a flowing tulle train reminiscent of ballet tutus. This closing look celebrated the brand’s heritage and set an anticipatory tone for Chanel’s future endeavours.

As the first collection without Viard, Eternelle Elegance has quickly become a focal point of couture week, sparking considerable discussion and anticipation. The show’s blend of timeless elegance and dramatic opera-inspired elements has solidified Chanel’s position at the forefront of luxury fashion, promising an exciting new chapter for the esteemed brand.

In this remarkable presentation, Chanel has once again proven that true luxury lies not only in exquisite garments but also in the ability to transform fashion into a compelling narrative. The Eternelle Elegancecollection is a testament to the brand’s enduring legacy and its ability to innovate, ensuring that the conversation around Chanel will continue to captivate and inspire for years to come.