Gucci has chosen an audacious opening act to signal its new era. Rather than a traditional runway show, the house premiered The Tiger, a cinematic fashion narrative directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn as the debut platform for its newly appointed creative director, Demna.
CINEMA AS RUNWAY
The setting was Milan’s Palazzo Mezzanotte, where guests sat in a makeshift movie theatre to witness The Tiger, a thirty-minute film weaving drama, couture, and identity. The screening replaced the runway walk, transforming fashion’s ritual into immersive storytelling.LEGACY, RISK, AND REVIVAL
The cast was star-studded. Demi Moore took the lead as Barbara Gucci, joined by Edward Norton, Elliot Page, Keke Palmer, Ed Harris, Alia Shawkat, and others. Their characters formed part of La Famiglia, a concept of archetypes that anchors Demna’s newly revealed Gucci universe.
LA FAMIGLIA AS BLUEPRINT
Demna released his first lookbook under the title La Famiglia just before the screening, photographed by Catherine Opie. The portraits depicted Gucci archetypes, from “La Bomba” to “La Contessa”, each representing a facet of heritage, identity, and theatrical allure.
In the film, Moore’s character hosts a birthday dinner that unravels into surreal, emotionally charged sequences. Family tension, dreamlike moments, and shifting power dynamics were all framed through couture as narrative.
The collection itself, around forty looks in total, paid homage to the archive with hints of a new direction. Signature Gucci codes appeared, including monograms, bamboo handles, and horsebit accents, alongside echoes of Tom Ford’s sensual era. At the same time, Demna’s voice was unmistakable in bold shoulders, sheer fabrics, daring cutouts, and high slits.
LEGACY, RISK, AND REVIVAL
Gucci’s decision reflected urgency and ambition. The house has faced slowing commercial momentum, and Demna’s appointment signals a desire to re energise while reconnecting with heritage.
The film debut set a tone: Gucci under Demna will lean into narrative, character, and spectacle as much as product. The spectacle is designed not as excess, but as a vessel for meaning.
Demna himself described this moment as “baby steps.” It was an introduction rather than a complete thesis. The full runway debut is scheduled for February 2026.
A CINEMATIC RESET
While fashion houses often strive for spectacle, few have used cinema as the primary medium for a debut. With The Tiger, Gucci did more than introduce a new creative chapter. It asserted that the line between fashion and performance, image and identity, is now blurred.
Whether this risk revitalises the brand’s momentum or is remembered as an experiment in fashion cinema, the moment has already created waves. Gucci’s future under Demna will be watched closely, not only for its style but also for how it tells its story to the world.
Written by: Linh Giang Nguyen
Published on: 26th September 2025