Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus takes us back to the 1950s with his newest spring/summer 2025 collection, “La Croisière” (French for “cruise”), oozing a blend of contemporary and classic American Hollywood glamour and French couture. Jacquemus debuted the collection during Haute Couture Week in Paris, delivering a series of ready-to-wear pieces that took place in the wooden apartment of esteemed architect Auguste Perret. The show had high-profile guests among the exclusive forty in attendance, including Anna Wintour and Carla Bruni, and a star-studded runway with models Adriana Lima and Irina Shayk. With many forecasting the rise of timeless elegance in fashion, “La Croisière’s” features unique ensembles of A-line cuts, draping and double-breasted coats that mark a new era in fashion- with Jacquemus moving from previous relaxed collections decorated with linens and pastels.

Sculptural Simplicity

Jacquemus is known for his ability to create statement-making silhouettes that are both simple and sculptural. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection continues this tradition, with clean lines and shapes that emphasize natural femininity. Skirts and dresses flow effortlessly, swishing with each step, while tailored blazers sit with precision, defining the waist with an artful edge.

Perhaps one of the most defining features of La Croisière is its celebration of the female form. Jacquemus’ designs accentuate the body in unexpected ways, as seen in his use of asymmetrical cuts and sharp, yet soft lines. Waistlines are emphasized, with many looks focusing on a playful flirtation between fitted and flowing—think of high-waisted trousers paired with open-back blouses or off-the-shoulder dresses that curve around the torso like liquid silk.

This season also brings a focus on accessories, particularly Jacquemus’ signature leather bags. The collection features “The Turismo,” “The Salon Clutch,” and the classic “Bambino,” which have been reimagined, offering a combination of daring novelty and elegant practicality adding a sense of refined sophistication to the known plaful spirit of Jacquemus.

The “Jacquemus Woman” Evolved

In many ways, La Croisière marks a turning point for the “Jacquemus woman.” The collection still channels that signature youthful, joyful energy, but there’s an added depth. The pieces feel more grown-up, more refined, but never losing the playfulness that made Jacquemus a cult favorite. There’s a certain polish to the looks this season, as though the carefree woman of past seasons has matured into someone more cosmopolitan, more worldly.

What’s perhaps most exciting about La Croisière is the evolution of its luxury. While the collection continues to offer the accessible, fashion-forward aesthetics that Jacquemus fans love, it also pushes into new territory, reflecting an increasing demand for elevated, yet effortless pieces. These are the kinds of items that speak to a wardrobe of timeless elegance, designed to travel well and look equally chic in the streets of Paris or at a poolside in Saint-Tropez.

In true Jacquemus fashion, the designer embraces gender fluidity in La Croisière. Tailoring blurs the lines between masculine and feminine, with loose pants and boxy shirts paired with sleek, feminine accessories. Oversized tailoring is met with sculptural forms, while fluidity and structure collide in ways that are both unexpected and visually compelling- flirting with androgyny without losing its core identity. For Jacquemus, fashion is not about rigidity; it’s about creating pieces that allow for movement, freedom, and expression.

Redefining Effortless Masculinity

In the Spring/Summer 2025 La Croisière collection, Jacquemus extends his signature style to menswear in a way that feels both fresh and timeless. While the men’s side of Jacquemus has historically been more understated compared to the women’s collection, the Spring/Summer 2025 line offers a more expansive exploration of the brand’s playful yet sophisticated aesthetic, embracing fluidity and comfort without sacrificing masculinity.

For this season, Jacquemus presents a vision of the modern man as relaxed, confident, and stylish in equal measure. The menswear collection revolves around the concept of “effortless chic” in the same vein as the women’s offering, but with a sharper, more angular twist. Think of a tailored linen suit jacket thrown over a simple tank top, or a slouchy, oversized blazer paired with shorts in the same muted Mediterranean hues that dominated the women’s line.

What stands out in the men’s section of La Croisière is its embrace of gender fluidity, a theme that continues to evolve in Jacquemus’ work. Much like the women’s collection, the menswear leans into unisex elements—oversized garments, deconstructed tailoring, and fluid cuts—that invite a more inclusive approach to fashion. This cross-pollination of gendered codes is something Jacquemus has increasingly explored, presenting men and women as part of the same natural, effortless world where personal style and expression take centre stage. “La Croisière,” invites men to dress with the same freedom and playfulness that Jacquemus has long championed for women.

A Timeless Journey with Jacquemus

With La Croisière, Jacquemus offers a masterful fusion of past and present, capturing the spirit of mid-century glamour while reinterpreting it for a modern audience. The collection, presented on the illustrious Paris Fashion Week stage, is not just a nod to the elegance of 1950s French couture but a vibrant reimagining of how that era’s opulence can be brought into the everyday.

The La Croisière collection speaks to the evolution of the Jacquemus woman and man—confident, playful, and effortlessly chic, yet grounded in a deep understanding of the art of dressing. It is a celebration of fashion’s ability to transcend time, to merge different eras, and to offer us new ways to experience luxury and beauty in the present. As we embrace the journey of La Croisière, we are reminded that true elegance lies not just in the past, but in how we choose to carry it forward into the future. Jacquemus’ exploration of mid-century style, reimagined for today, ensures that his vision of fashion remains as captivating and relevant as ever—elevated, joyful, and always looking towards the horizon.

Written By: Jennifer Lu

Published: 5th February 2025