In a realm traditionally dominated by legacy auction houses and steep margins, Marteau & Co, a freshly launched Geneva-based platform, is turning heads. Their bold promise: put independent watchmakers—not just bidders—at the heart of the auction. Rather than treating watches as mere resale commodities, this platform embeds respect, fairness, and sustainability into its very architecture.

A New Paradigm: The Maker’s Fee

Marteau & Co introduces what they call the Maker’s Fee—a mechanism whereby 3 percent of the hammer price(deducted from the buyer’s premium) flows back to the original creator of the timepiece.

In effect, it functions like a resale right: a way for watchmakers to share in the future value of their works. It’s more than symbolic—because it’s contractually structured, ensuring the benefit is embedded in every secondary sale.

By rethinking where value flows in the auction chain, Marteau & Co is challenging the status quo of resale economics in horology.

Why Now Matters

The timing couldn’t be more strategic. The secondary market for luxury watches has exploded, with pre‑owned sales projected to rival or even outstrip new production in the coming years. Yet many independent makers feel disenfranchised by traditional models—creating pieces that later skyrocket in value, but never seeing a penny of that upside. 

Marteau & Co is led by insiders: former Phillips and Richemont executives. Their institutional experience gives this venture legitimacy—and suggests it isn’t just a niche experiment.

As one founder puts it, their goal is not to compete head‑on with legacy houses, but to create a platform where collectors and makers both benefit. 

How the Platform Works

1. Consignment & Valuation
Sellers submit their watches—either in Geneva or remotely—and the team appraises and sets consignment terms, including reserves.

2. Cataloguing & Presentation
Each lot is meticulously photographed, annotated, and positioned with narrative context—not only about the watch itself, but the maker behind it. 

3. Auction & Promotion
The auction is conducted transparently and digitally, with a lower buyer’s premium (20 %) than many traditional houses. 

4. Settlement & Maker’s Fee
After the hammer falls, Marteau handles payments, logistics, and reporting. Then the 3 % maker’s share is distributed to the original creator—closing the loop. 

This alignment of incentives is rare in an industry where intermediaries often capture disproportionate gains.

What This Could Mean for the Industry

Collecting With Conscience
For buyers, a purchase on Marteau isn’t just an investment—it’s participation in a more equitable system, where their bid supports creators as well.

Empowered Creation
Makers gain financial incentive not only at initial sale but also with each future resale—encouraging investment in artistry and risk-taking.

Premium on Provenance
Collectors will increasingly prize works with transparent maker lineage, knowing that resale value flows back to creators.

Legacy Houses Under Pressure
Traditional auction houses, with their heft and fees, may have to reconsider their models—or risk losing relevance among discerning sellers and buyers.

A Watch Auction With Heart (and Vision)

Marteau & Co’s approach transcends simple commerce. It asserts a principle: those who create should continue to benefit. In an age where heritage, scarcity, and narrative steer value, restructuring the value chain to honor that principle feels not only idealistic—but overdue.

As the auction gavel falls in Geneva and bids fly across screens worldwide, one question looms: are collectors and the industry ready to embrace a future where those who build the watches also share in their enduring legacy?

Written By: Claudia H

Published: 30th September 2025