Saint Laurent has long stood as a symbol of effortless chic, modern rebellion, and unassailable sophistication. Under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the French luxury house continues to push the boundaries of fashion while remaining deeply anchored in its storied legacy. The brand’s latest campaign, “As Time Goes By,” reaffirms Saint Laurent’s timeless appeal and explores the delicate relationship between memory, time, and style.
The campaign, which accompanies the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, offers a striking visual narrative inspired by the writings of Marcel Proust, most notably his reflections on memory and the passage of time. With its stark, cinematic imagery and evocative themes, “As Time Goes By” feels like a meditation on identity, nostalgia, and the enduring nature of true style.
Proustian Reflections: Time, Memory, and Identity
The title “As Time Goes By” evokes more than just the passing of days. It calls to mind the famous phrase “la madeleine” from Proust’s In Search of Lost Time, in which the taste of a small pastry triggers a flood of memories and emotions. For Saint Laurent, time is not merely a linear progression, but an experience interwoven with personal and cultural significance. In Vaccarello’s hands, fashion is a vehicle for these reflections, a lens through which we explore the elasticity of time and the way our memories shape our identities.
Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, on which the campaign is based, features an elegant fusion of past and present. Vaccarello draws upon the house’s heritage—those legendary sharp tailoring, the sleek tuxedos, and the sultry silhouettes made famous by Yves Saint Laurent—and reinterprets them for the modern wearer. Yet, like Proust’s Madeleine, the clothing acts as a trigger for something deeper. It invites the viewer to reflect on how fashion both shapes and expresses identity over time, how a single outfit or accessory can become a memory, a symbol of an era, or a moment in one’s life.
A Cinematic and Contemporary Vision
The visual language of the “As Time Goes By” campaign strikes a balance between the nostalgia of old-world cinema and the sleek, modern sensibilities of contemporary fashion. Photographer David Sims, who is known for his minimalist yet striking imagery, captures the Saint Laurent aesthetic with his signature black-and-white shots. The stark contrast, the bold shadows, and the contemplative expressions of the models are all hallmarks of Sims’ work, but they are also deeply evocative of classic film noir. This cinematic quality brings a sense of narrative to the campaign, elevating it from just a visual presentation of clothes to something much more immersive—a moment frozen in time.
The campaign feels as if it is a homage to Parisian glamour, a nod to the golden age of French cinema, where the viewer is not merely looking at clothes but rather at an unfolding story. The idea of time passing—of youth fading, of memories evolving—is communicated not just through the styling and composition but also through the mood of the photographs themselves. The visual story is melancholy yet deeply beautiful, inviting the viewer to contemplate the transient nature of life and style.
The Concept of “Timelessness” in Fashion
Saint Laurent’s “As Time Goes By” is not simply a campaign about the passage of time; it is also a meditation on the idea of “timelessness” in fashion. Fashion, by nature, is often cyclical, with trends coming and going. Yet, true style—embodied by brands like Saint Laurent—transcends this cycle. It is a constant, rooted in an ethos of sophistication, confidence, and individuality.
In the campaign, Vaccarello revisits some of the most defining pieces in the Saint Laurent archive, such as sharp tuxedos, tailored blazers, and leather jackets. These garments—though contemporary in their cut and fit—echo the past, creating a powerful dialogue between eras. The clothes in the “As Time Goes By” collection are designed not to conform to the fleeting whims of fashion but to stand as enduring expressions of personal style. In this way, the campaign serves as a reminder that style is not just about what’s new, but about what resonates deeply within us and endures over time.
As Saint Laurent’s campaign suggests, true elegance lies not in chasing the moment but in embracing the timeless qualities of simplicity, grace, and authenticity. These qualities, embodied in both the clothing and the models, highlight a broader narrative: that style, much like memory, can transcend time, standing as a testament to personal and cultural identity.
The Enduring Legacy of Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent’s “As Time Goes By” campaign beautifully encapsulates the brand’s legacy as a symbol of timeless sophistication and modern luxury. Through its cinematic photography and thought-provoking themes, the campaign not only showcases the latest collection but also celebrates the eternal nature of true style. In a world constantly moving forward, Saint Laurent remains a beacon of enduring elegance—a reminder that, much like memory, style is an ever-present thread connecting the past, present, and future.
Written By: Erika Challita
Published: 19th December 2024