In an extraordinary moment for the world of luxury jewellery, the Aga Khan emerald, a spectacular 37-carat Colombian stone set in a Cartier brooch-turned-pendant, has broken records, selling for an impressive $8.8 million at Christie’s auction in Geneva. This sale not only set a new benchmark for emeralds but also symbolized the timeless allure of a piece steeped in history, craftsmanship, and glamour.
A Gift of Love and Elegance
The history of the Aga Khan emerald began in the early 1960s when Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan commissioned a unique piece of jewellery from the renowned Parisian jewellery house Cartier. Designed as a brooch for his wife, the British socialite Nina Dyer, the jewel centres on a remarkable 37-carat Colombian emerald. This rare gemstone is surrounded by a dazzling halo of 20 marquise-cut diamonds set in a combination of platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. The design is a testament to Cartier’s expert craftsmanship and Dyer’s impeccable taste, marking a moment of both personal sentiment and high fashion.
Nina Dyer was known for her striking beauty, her social grace, and her love for animals, which was reflected in her jewellery collection—rich with pieces that symbolized not only luxury but also a deep appreciation for nature. After her passing in 1969, the emerald was sold at auction as per her will, with the proceeds earmarked for animal welfare causes across Europe, Africa, and Asia. It was then acquired by Van Cleef & Arpels and later passed into the hands of Harry Winston, who reimagined the piece, transforming it into a pendant that could be worn in a more versatile fashion. Despite these changes, the jewel’s original emerald remained a defining feature, captivating all who viewed it.
The Record-Breaking Auction
The return of the Aga Khan emerald to auction in 2024 was highly anticipated, and the sale did not disappoint. Estimated to bring in between $6 million and $8 million, the final price of $8.8 million exceeded all expectations, setting a new benchmark for emeralds in the auction world. The sale also marked a notable achievement for the market for coloured gemstones, which has seen continued interest from collectors around the globe. Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewellery in Europe, attributed the success of the sale to the sustained demand for rare, high-quality vintage jewels, particularly those with historical significance and impeccable provenance.
The Aga Khan emerald’s remarkable price eclipsed the previous record holder, Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari emerald and diamond brooch, which sold for $6.5 million in 2011. However, in terms of price per carat, the emerald still fell behind the record set by the 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, which fetched $305,000 per carat in 2017. The Aga Khan emerald, at $237,838 per carat, remains an extraordinary achievement in its own right, with its size, clarity, and unique history making it a highly coveted piece.
A Collector’s Dream: The Allure of Signed Jewellery
What sets the Aga Khan emerald apart is not just its exceptional beauty, but its rich history. Vintage jewels with strong provenance, like this emerald, have become increasingly sought after, with collectors eager to own pieces that tell a story—whether of royalty, celebrity, or high society. Signed pieces by the great houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston continue to attract premium prices at auction, as the market for such treasures remains robust despite challenging economic conditions.
The emerald’s sale was part of a broader auction event held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva, which saw bidders from 37 countries participate. Overall, the auction was a resounding success, with 92% of the lots sold and many items exceeding their estimated prices. This success highlights the growing appetite for rare gemstones and vintage jewels, with buyers from all corners of the globe competing for pieces of significant historical and artistic value.
A Piece of History, A Symbol of Enduring Elegance
The Aga Khan emerald is more than just a gemstone—it is a piece of history. Its allure extends far beyond the monetary value it commands at auction. This remarkable jewel, which has passed through the hands of royalty, celebrities, and iconic jewellery houses, represents the highest ideals of luxury and craftsmanship. As it embarks on its next chapter, it will undoubtedly remain a symbol of elegance, rarity, and enduring beauty.
For those who appreciate the finer things in life, the Aga Khan emerald serves as a shining example of how jewellery can transcend time and trend, becoming an heirloom that embodies the rich stories and legacies of the past. Its record-breaking sale is a testament to the enduring appeal of exceptional gemstones and the timeless elegance of vintage design.
Written by: Lydia Kelly
Published: 15th of November 2024