In the world of high watchmaking, few names evoke the kind of reverence that the Rolex Daytona does. Long hailed for its precision and prestige, the Daytona has cemented itself as a cornerstone of luxury collecting. Yet, every so often, a piece surfaces that doesn’t just belong in the Daytona canon—it redefines it. This May 11th, in Geneva, Sotheby’s will offer collectors a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity: a one-of-a-kind platinum Daytona, reference 16516, created as part of an ultra-secretive, custom commission in the late 1990s.

Beyond Rare: A Custom Rolex

Rolex is famously discreet and rarely, if ever, accommodates custom orders. That makes this platinum Daytona an anomaly in the truest sense. Featuring a pale pink mother-of-pearl dial set with diamond hour markers, the watch is not only exquisite in design, but also historically significant—it belongs to a set of four pieces made for a single VIP client. These watches, all carrying the same reference number, were crafted in 1998–1999, a full 15 years before Rolex would introduce platinum Daytonas to the public.

The Mythical Quartet

This unique timepiece is the last of the four-piece commission to appear at auction. Its three predecessors have already made headlines across the globe:

• A rainbow-toned mother-of-pearl model with Arabic numerals sold for over $870,000.
• A lapis lazuli dial paired with a turquoise strap fetched a staggering $3.27 million.
• A turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial version with a brown leather strap earned just over $3.1 million.

Each sale occurred at Sotheby’s Important Watches auctions in Hong Kong, solidifying this collection’s place in horological lore.

A Collector’s Enigma

While the identity of the original commissioner remains officially undisclosed, industry insiders have speculated that the mastermind behind the commission may have been Patrick Heiniger, Rolex’s CEO from 1992 to 2008. Known for his bold yet strategic leadership, Heiniger was occasionally seen wearing a platinum Daytona—lending credence to the theory.

Whether or not the rumors are true, what remains indisputable is the rarity of these watches. Rolex simply does not make exceptions, which makes this commission all the more extraordinary.

The Final Chapter: Geneva, May 11

Now, the last chapter in this ultra-exclusive saga will be written. On May 11, 2025, at the Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva, this final piece—the only one with diamond hour markers—will cross the auction block. With an estimate ranging from CHF 700,000 to 1.4 million (approximately $860,000 to $1.7 million), expectations are high. Given the performance of its siblings, this platinum Daytona could easily exceed projections.

More than a watch, this Daytona represents a hidden narrative in the Rolex story—one of power, privilege, and passion. For collectors who chase not just time, but legacy, this is as close to the holy grail as one might come.

Written By: Lydia Kelly

Published: 17th April 2025