Celebrating its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin unveils several new models in the Marine Torpilleur collection during Geneva Watch Days: two timepieces with date and power reserve displays, a moon phase watch offered in two dial colours, a chronograph with an annual calendar offered in two dial colours, and a flying tourbillon prominently displaying its unique escapement against the backdrop of a stunning grand feu enamel dial.
First presented in 2017, the Torpilleur collection is dedicated to the famous historical chronometers of the Swiss manufacture with factories in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Ulysse Nardin founded his watch workshop in 1846 in Le Locle. The talented watchmaker was also a savvy businessman who realized quickly that the demand for precise marine chronometers used for navigation aboard overseas vessels was rising at that time. Soon his models guided countless ships on their journeys.
Since then, the goal of precision and pushing the boundaries of accuracy has been at the core of Ulysse Nardin. In more recent times, this pioneering spirit resulted in several firsts in the world of watchmaking, including an escapement made of silicon (2001), a diamond escapement (2005), and the DIAMonSIL escapement (2007) made of silicon and synthetic diamond.
The new models of the Marine Torpilleur collection also integrate this innovative, high-tech, non-magnetic material in their manufacture calibres; all provide a lengthy power reserve, depending on the complexity, and some are officially certified C.O.S.C. chronometers.
The watches offer a tasteful contemporary take on historical marine chronometers with large Roman numerals and cathedral hands-on broad dials framed by thin, fluted bezels. The high-contrast dials, some of which have been crafted by Le Locle-based specialist Donzé Cadrans, since 2011 a subsidiary of Ulysse Nardin, proudly display “Chronometry Since 1846.”
Limited to 175 pieces, the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel is the entry-level model of the new collection, which is dedicated entirely to marine chronometry.
As with most of its sibling models, the subsidiary seconds are prominently displayed at 6 o’clock. The subdial for the “Haut” and “Bas” (“up” and “down”) power reserve indicators are located across the dial at 12 o’clock. Large Roman numerals and delicate rhodium-plated hands distinguish the design that is inspired by historical measuring instruments, which in earlier times was crucial to seafaring navigation.
The enamel dial made by Donzé Cadrans exudes an expressive blue shade evoking an image of a calm ocean surface. The Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel is a great choice to wear at sea or on dry land.
Today, the Genevan luxury manufacture has several annual calendars in its collection, including a chronograph. This combination is still relatively rare as there is only a handful of Swiss brands producing them: these include I.W.C., Richard Mille, Carl F. Bucherer, Montblanc, Breitling, Parmigiani, Zenith, and of course Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin’s annual calendar was invented by the inimitable Ludwig Oechslin using only nine additional parts; it was licensed to Zenith for use in that brand’s yearly calendars as well.