The esteemed Maison Van Cleef & Arpels dazzles collectors and connoisseurs alike with its showcase at the prestigious Fine Art and Antique Fair, the TEFAF Maastricht 2024. Having unveiled seven luxurious creations, the Maison illustrated its history, inspiration, and inventive spirit.
Out of the seven pieces showcased by Van Cleef & Arpels, five are from its Heritage collection. The Heritage collection comprises over 120 antique jewellery and high jewellery pieces which were all created by the Maison between the years 1920 and 1990. For this year’s TEFAF Maastricht, two Leaf clips and three 1960s creations were chosen as highlights.
The two leaf-shaped clips reflect the Maison’s inspiration in flora and pay homage to the spontaneous expressions of nature. The first was created in 1943; it has a polished gold finish and is adorned with diamonds similar to those that have spangled the Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo bracelets since the 30s. The second is a 1947 creation with a ruby-studded centre vein, highlighting the Maison’s late 19th-century naturalistic aesthetic.
Featured alongside these pieces is the 1961 Minaudière, a signature of the Maison. This gorgeous jewellery case is outfitted with a mirror and inventive compartments that allowed women in the 60s to carry their lipsticks, calling cards, and even their cigarette cases after twilight. Its clasp is also decorated with a row of graduated diamonds, adding to the elegance of the case. Thanks to Charles Arpels, the case would go on to contribute to Van Cleef & Arpels’ global reputability as it was inspired by a client putting away her essentials in a metal box.
Another piece displayed is a pair of bejewelled earrings, featuring rose-cut deep-blue sapphires. Pear-shaped emeralds, diamonds and rubies accompany these sapphires hung on yellow gold strands, but they are detachable. This innovative feature allows its wearer to have only the main floral theme remain, a testament to Van Cleef & Arpels’ long-standing tradition of transformable jewellery.
The fifth piece from the collection is a 1968 turquoise bracelet highly characteristic of 1970s jewellery. Its vibrant colour palette seen through azure blue cabochons and violet amethysts is brought together in a twisted structure of yellow gold and complemented by twenty-seven brilliant diamonds. The aesthetic of this bracelet even allows for day-to-night wear adaptability.
But besides these esteemed Heritage pieces, Van Cleef & Arpels also highlights two of its unique high jewellery pieces. One is the Léonore Ballerina clip designed with various-sized diamonds on an openwork skirt, making it look like gossamer lace. Then, as the figure is entirely crafted in white gold, it is brightened up by a bustier and ballet slipper set with blue sapphires and edged with yellow gold. The ballerina’s waist is also highlighted with golden beads. This creation is an ode to Louis Arpels’ interest in ballet that paved the way for the Maison’s long tradition of having couture and dance come together.
The other piece is the Philenor Butterfly Between the Finger ring which is inspired by the Battus Philenor. The specimen’s wings are recreated with turquoise, onyx, and white mother-of-pearl, enhanced by pink sapphires and diamonds, including a 2.5-carat diamond, in an interplay of dimensions and materials. This Between the Finger ring provides the illusion of a butterfly gently resting on the hand, and it can be worn in various ways as the butterfly rotates thanks to a clever mechanism, further demonstrating the Maison’s exquisite taste for transformable jewellery.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ demonstrates superb expertise in blending tradition and modernity. With inspired motifs of nature and dance and a commitment to the artistry of transformable jewellery, wearers can trust the Maison to deliver creativity, sophistication and glamour in its antique and high jewellery pieces for decades to come.