Saint Laurent unveiled its latest autumn/winter ’24/’25 collection against the mesmerizing backdrop of the “Transparencies” exhibition at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in the heart of Paris. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello embarked on a journey to redefine sensuality through the delicate interplay of transparency and structure, showcasing garments that blur the lines between ethereal elegance and wearable artistry.
Vaccarello’s fascination with the ephemeral was evident throughout the collection, as he dared to push boundaries with fabrics that were as light as whispers. Silk hosiery, traditionally confined to undergarments, took centre stage, crafted into garments that draped sensuously over the body. Transparent tulle cascaded in graceful folds, creating a soft silhouette that hinted at the skin beneath, while knee-length chiffon skirts layered over see-through tights added a playful yet sophisticated touch.
The collection exuded a sense of airy sophistication, too, where jackets were nonchalantly slung over models’ arms, their textures ranging from fluffy feathers to luxurious rubber peacoats. This juxtaposition of textures and materials added depth to the ethereal ensembles, grounding them in a modern yet timeless aesthetic.
Echoes of the past resonated in Vaccarello’s choice of accessories, particularly the revival of tiny hats reminiscent of 1920s glamour. Jersey caps hugged models’ heads, complemented by oversized gold earrings and stacked lucite bangles, creating a striking contrast against the fluidity of the garments.
Colour was also instrumental in defining the collection’s ambience, transitioning seamlessly from understated taupe and sand to luxurious tones such as olive, chocolate, and vermillion. Hunter green emerged as the season’s standout colour, complemented by highlights of iris, midnight blue, maroon, heather grey, and nude. Each shade was carefully selected to enhance the delicate fabrics and elegant silhouettes, imbuing every ensemble with an air of sophisticated refinement.
Of course, the runway exhibition still showcased Vaccarello’s adeptness in blending innovation with respect for Saint Laurent’s heritage. Time-honoured outerwear staples such as elegant car coats and airy chubbies provided structure amid the layers of diaphanous fabrics. This seamless fusion of classical and contemporary design elements highlighted the collection’s central theme of redefining sensuality in the context of modern fashion.
As the audience absorbed the intricacies of each ensemble, it became clear that Vaccarello had succeeded in his mission to challenge conventions of wearability and elegance. The Saint Laurent woman of autumn/winter ’24/’25 is one who embraces her femininity with confidence, clad in garments that whisper rather than shout, leaving an indelible impression of ethereal elegance wherever she goes.
Saint Laurent’s latest collection not only captivated with its delicate craftsmanship and innovative use of materials but also reaffirmed its position at the forefront of haute couture. Vaccarello’s visionary approach continues to push boundaries, inviting fashion enthusiasts to explore the exquisite intersection of sensuality and sophistication with each meticulously curated piece.