With the end of fashion weeks in New York, London and Milan, Paris welcomes the global luxury industry this week. An array of A-listers landed in the French capital to witness powerhouses such as Saint Laurent and Dior, among 107 other brands, showcasing 2023 collections.
Dior opened Paris Fashion Week 2023 by recreating a decaying palace inside an annex of the Tuileries Gardens with attendees including Jennifer Lawrence, Jenna Ortega and Anya Taylor-Joy. Vines crept through Renaissance doors, covering fading wooden cornices and down weathered columns to conjure the mystery of former times. The set is modelled on the Dior headquarters on Avenue Montaigne and inspired by Catherine of Medicis, the Renaissance queen who in the 16th century moved to the Tuileries. Catherine also introduced heels, corsets and Italian Burano lace to the French court – selected by Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in this considerate show of 84 looks.
Day two saw Hailey Bieber, Kate Moss and Demi Moore sit front row at the Yves Saint Laurent show. Dramatic 80s shoulders, column silhouettes – and hoods – taken from the prime of the late Yves Saint Laurent at the Parisian stalwart’s Tuesday evening show, all set to the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower. The first major party of the season celebrated one of Paris’ most iconic beauty brands: Lancome. A stone staircase dappled in coloured light guided VIP guests including model Noemie Lenoir into the lavish Petit Palais venue by the banks of the Seine River Monday night.
67 shows are running from 25th September to Tuesday 3rd October, as Sarah Burton and Gabriela Hearst present farewell collections for Alexander McQueen and Chloé respectively. These two departures have led the fashion industry to focus on the future and have spiked intrigue into what’s next for the two luxury brands. Burton and Hearst are both prominent figures in the business. Burton took the lead of the McQueen brand following the death of its founder. Hearst leaves Chloé after two years but has had a momentous impact by her fortitude to put sustainability at the heart of mainstream fashion. Both women depart high-profile vacancies that offer a new name to achieve industry fame.
Further buzz circulating Paris’ fashion week is news that Alessandro Michele, who left Gucci last year, is to make a long-awaited return to the fashion world. Fashion shows in New York, London and Milan this month have followed in the groove of consumer eagerness for wearable, simple classic pieces and capsule wardrobes over trends. Industry experts believe there is an opportunity for a designer with a brave new aesthetic vision of the capability Michele showcased during his flamboyant lead at Gucci.
From the dizzying heights of the Pompidou Centre to the lofty halls of the Musee d’Orsay, Paris fashion houses have showed off the capital’s most iconic art museums. Spectators witnessed vibrant fall-winter styles meander between marble sculptures and avant-garde installations on the penultimate day. Once again, the iconic backdrops of the city have added to the magic that encompasses Paris Fashion Week 2023.